THE FOLLOWING FEATURE ARTICLE IS A REPRINT FROM
THE INFORMATIVE WORKING DOG MAGAZINE MARCH 1999
(Owned and run by Evan Harbalis from Von Ultimate Kennels)

Thanks goes to Evan (Non Classical Dogs)


MAXIMIZING YOUR PUPPY'S POTENTIAL

By Patricia Fischer


Choosing a puppy is probably one of the most important decisions that we, as dog sport enthusiasts, make. Even the greatest trainers cannot make a silk purse from a sows ear. Steve Robinson of Common Scents Canine Training Centre recently gave a seminar to address the dilemma of selecting a puppy and raising it in an environment that enhances all its natural skills and abilities.

Over 30 people representing 15 different breeds attended this seminar held at Stonington Kennels in Goodrich, Mi. While much of the material presented was general in nature, Steve stressed that early puppy development is as important to a house pet as it is to a working dog

Selecting a puppy

Dog ownership represents a tremendous amount of responsibility, since dogs are pack animals by nature.
Dogs need human contact ; without it, left alone, they develop isolation anxiety that results in "nasty" behaviors such as chewing, digging, scratching, etc. In general, there are four important factors to consider when matching dog and owner:

1. Breed. Consider the physical and psychological characteristics of the breed. The perfect puppy, by Benjamin Hart, is an excellent source guide. Keep in mind that your seeking a match. For example, a laid back, low-keyed person will not be a good match for a high-energy, high drive pup.
2. Sex. Males and Females have many different characteristics, with males generally more aggressive, and females generally more tolerant of children. Also, males may mark their territory and females may cause brown spots in the grass. Do you want to deal with female heat cycles? Also consider the sex of the other animals in the family. Two of the same sex may jockey for dominance. The result of neutering males are often unpredictable. Chose the sex after careful consideration.
3. Age. According to Scott and Fuller, highly regarded scientific researchers, 7 weeks is an ideal age to remove the pup from the litter. By this time, the pup has developed interaction with its own species but has not bonded too closely with its own kind. Puppies, once taken from their littermates, need socialization to develop their fullest potential.
4. Breeder. A reputable breeder can be of help in puppy selection by asking questions and determining exactly what your needs and objectives are. The breeder should also offer a guarantee against genetic problems, as well as a health guarantee. Careful breeder and litter selection should involve setting objectives (pet, show, working) and interviewing breeders. Check out the dogs in the kennel. Are they outgoing, friendly, bright, energetic, responsive and full of drive? If the answer is yes, this may be the breeder with whom to deal. Remember that poor genetics cannot be changed while good genetics can be messed up by improper training. Pick out the best puppy you can afford because price is relative when compared to the long-term cost involved in proper nutrition and veterinary care. Shyness and timidity are related to fear, and should always be avoided. The dam is especially important since she plays an important role in patterning the litter and teaching behavior. Genetics is a factor that must be considered regardless of the end objective (pet or working).

Puppy development

According to Scott and Fuller in their classic Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog, there are four critical stages of development:

1. Neonatal: The birth to 13 days. During this stage, sensory capacities are limited. The puppies are blind, deaf, and have not developed their old factor sense. They are able to taste, feel, touch, respond to temperature, pain, and gravity. They have a strong sucking reflex, but their motor skills are limited to a slow crawl, suckling, licking and vocalization, with a limited ability to develop conditioned reflexes (learning).
2. Transition: 13 to 21 days. This stage is characterized by tremendous neural growth and rapid development of basic sensory and motor skills-
Thirteen days - Eyes open.
Sixteen days - Eliminate outside nest.
Nineteen days - Hearing.
Twenty-one days - Teeth erupt.

Learning begins

During this period, the pups start to eliminate outside the nest, the suckling reflex diminishes and antagonistic behavior (play fighting) begins. By the end of this time, three important things happen. The puppy can move (locomotion); it can begin eating solid food and, most importantly, it has a capacity for learning. It still lacks sexual development, social interaction, and the ability to care for itself.
3. Socialization: 3 to 12 weeks. This stage is characterized by the rapid development of the social behavior. The pups begin to eat solid food as the mother begins the weaning process. They leave the nest to go as far away as possible to eliminate. They yelp when restrained and vocalize when left alone in a strange place. They begin to investigate people and objects, they develop sound discrimination and begin to form a dominance hierarchy by play fighting. Fear can be imprinted during this time since there is an increasing leaning capacity.
4. Juvenile: 12 to 6 months. This period is characterized by basic changes in physical capacities and social behavior. The puppy now has a full adult capacity to lean. Take advantage of this by making play educational. The puppy retrieve drive can be enhanced and taught throw ball play. Rag play can enhanced prey drive and teach full bites. Conditioning can begin by teaching the puppy to swim. At this stage the dogs physical capacities are underdeveloped relative to the mental capacities. This means that special care must be taken in developing the physical. For example, until approximately 13 months, the growth plates in the long bones are not closed. Therefore, extensive jumping should be avoided until these plates are closed.
5. Adolescence: 6months to 2 years. Physical development is complete in most breeds with the exception of large breeds, such as Rottweilers, which require 3 years. This stage is marked by an increase in self-confidence, experience and physical size, strength and skills.

Puppy testing

Puppy testing is comprised of two basic components: Physical and psychological. Physical components involve evaluation of conformational soundness, bone, overall structure and length, coat, movement, alertness and freedom from genetic defects. Choose a breeder carefully; they should have dogs with the working qualities you seek. If a parent doesn't have it, how can they give it to their progeny? Study the mother especially hard, because not only does she contribute 50 percent of the genes, she also contributes to early learning. A talented, friendly outgoing bitch has a better chance of producing a good litter. The following should then be evaluated after the sex choice has been made.

Conformational soundness: Look for soundness of bone with a compact structure. Avoid a dog that is long or loose and floppy. The coat is a reflection of general health. A dry, flaky coat can mean poor nutrition, parasites, or a nervous condition. Look at the puppy move. Are there parasites, or a nervous condition? Look at the pup move. Is there a wobble? Look for a sureness in movement. Avoid a pup the looks "funny" in movement. All puppies should be alert. Request that the breeder not feed the pups before testing since full pups are naturally sluggish. Last, but certainly not least, know the genetic defects in your breed and require the parents be tested and
certified against breed genetic defects.

Do's & Don'ts

Here are some basic do's and don'ts in preparation for puppy testing:

 Talk to the breeder in advance and find out what they will allow.
 Take along a knowledgeable person.
 Don't ever do anything to traumatise a puppy!
 Set test objectives.
 Mark and number each puppy.
 Don't feed prior to testing.
 Don't be afraid to ask the breeder's advice. A god breeder has observed the litter and wants you to be a satisfied customer.

As the seminar continued, Steve then demonstrated several puppy tests noting that each would be graded as follows; ++, +, 0, -,and --. Keep in mind that scoring is relative to the traits desired. For example, the very independent dog may be very suitable (++) for police work, but much less so for AKC competition.

Grading tests

1. Observe the litter behavior. Stand quietly and watch them play. Eliminate (--) a shy withdrawn pup. A dominant pup can become a self-confident puppy. Does the puppy match your personality?
2. Move to a strange area that is confined and safe. Stand still momentarily. Some pups boldly explore (++). Some show insecurity, followed by an investigative nature. Puppies that cling could be dependent. Puppies that show excessive fear of strange, but neutral places (--) should be avoided.
3. Neutral stranger. Does the pup come to you, sniff and wag his tail enthusiastically? (++). Does the pup show fear and avoid you? (--).
4. Friendly stranger: Call using a friendly tone and clap your hands. Look for the dog that likes people and comes readily wagging his tail (++). Eliminate the dog who backs off (--).
5. Startle test: Fill a pop can with stones and when the pup is playing , drop the can on the ground behind him. Look for a pup that explores the can (+), or even better, picks it up to play (++). This test for weak nerves eliminates those that shake, crouch in fear, or run from the noise. (--).
6. Retrieve and play chase: Here you're looking for a natural retriever. Throw the ball, acting excited. A tennis ball attached to a string works well. Throw the ball and look for intense desire (++). Complete lack of interest is graded (--).
7. Tug test (service dogs): Cloth diapers are ideal to use as a tug. Check out the bite; is it full (++) or half? Does the pup and proudly emerge the winner (++)? Does the pup show little interest or avoidance?
8. Dominance/submission testing: Decide what you want again, seeking the "match" for your personality.
Fear threshold: Hold the pup slightly off the ground. Does it panic (--), or merely struggle to get loose? A calm, confident dog may show little response. Dominance testing: Hold the pup on the ground with firm, but gentle restraint. Does he fight and make eye contact? This dog shows a dominant personality (++) which may be more suitable for a working dog. On the other hand, a person seeking an easy-going, pliable pet may rate this dog (--).
Submission testing: Lastly, roll the pup over on his back. A good working dog will fight this (++). On the other hand, submission may be desirable for a dog being selected as a gentle pet for a family with children. Tracking potential: Tracking potential is extremely difficult to determine in a puppy. If the puppy is energetic, shows good prey drive, stability, good nerves, and a high good drive, it would make a good Schutzhund prospect. Tracking is an obedience exercise. A good obedience prospect should be able to track. The "nose" (scent ability), if it could be measured, is probably not a determining factor. However, if you use food for tracking training, food drive is obviously an important factor.
9. Pain tolerance: This is the last test! Use enough pain to get a reaction by squeezing the skin between the toes or pinching the flack. The greater the pressure the dog can take, the higher its pain threshold. Medium-high is best for a working dog. A dog that's super high may result in a physical strength contest during training. A dog that tests low may wimp out. Take care here, remember never to traumatize a puppy.

Stay objective

All of these tests must be put together and integrated into a whole to choose the dog with which you can work best. In doing puppy testing, keep your perspective. What are we measuring with each test? What specific reaction do you desire? Decide what you want before testing and grade accordingly. Most importantly, maintain your objectivity! In puppy testing these antonyms could be used to describe temperament: Passive/aggressive, shy/gregarious, bold/timid, assertive/withdrawn, excitable/placid, dominant/submissive, hard/soft, energetic/lethargic, intense/subdued, self-confident/anxious, inquisitive/dull, sensitive/insensitive, high drive/laid back. Again, determine what is important to you and, most importantly, maintain your objectivity!.

Questions arose on hardness. Steve defined hardness as the ability to take pressure or pain and forget the negative experience, literally "bouncing back." Hardness requires a unique blend of mental and physical capacities for a working dog, contrasted with the soft dog who does not readily withstand pressure or compulsion and does not forget easily. Soft dogs may make excellent pets. In general, we are looking for an attitude that says: "If I go forward I will win!"
Food drive

This brought up another question on assessing food drive. It's much easier to train a pup with a high food drive. Steve suggested a series of small shelves. Begin low and gradually place the food higher and higher. A high food-drive dog will reach the top shelf and get that tasty morsel (if you food train, this is very desirable). Remember to conclude the test by always letting the pup win.

Guidelines here are as follows:

1. Get a guarantee in writing covering genetic defects and general health.
2. Vet check: Mandatory within 24 to 48 hours. Don't give yourself time to become attached. Select a vet that likes your breed and that will take the time to explain.
3. Create the right environment. This means "puppy proofing" your home. Don't put the pup in a situation where he can get into trouble. Introduce the puppy to other animals and children under supervision. Remember, this is a most impressionable time and even the best pup can be damaged now. Transport the pup in a crate on the front seat. Your voice and odor will be reassuring in this situation.
4. Set up a routine. Puppies needs structure. Your feelings, when starting an new job are similar to those of the pup. If you must change his diet, do it gradually. Ask the breeder for some food to accomplish this. Make sure the pup walks and plays with every member of the household. Most importantly, make sure there is "alone time." It's just as necessary as socialization.
5. Set up a house routine. Always use the same exit door and the same elimination area. Too many toys can actually create confusion.
6. Crate training (controlled confinement) is an excellent technique for all pups, and a must for the working dog. Put the crate in a visible location during the day and move it into the bedroom at night. Feed the puppy in the crate and store the toys in the crate. The crate is the dog's space, his safe haven.

Housebreaking is made easy by using the crate method. Steve detailed an easy common sense method of housebreaking.

7. Supplements: If you feed a good quality of food, you should use them sparingly. In general, a light supplement with high quality vitamins and minerals is best. The calcium/phosphorous ratio is a delicate balance which can be upset by too much vitamins, minerals or an excess of meat in the diet.
8. Care and grooming. Carolyn Garrity, owner of Stonington Kennels, presented a section that detailed methods, equipment and proper handling of puppies for grooming. She stressed the importance of introducing grooming on a regular basis. Grooming can be a pleasurable experience for both owner and pup if done correctly, on a timely basis.
9. Conditioning: Don't overdue it! Remember the cartilage needs to harden into bone and growth plates don't close until 11 to 13 months. Swimming is the best exercise for a young pup. Hiking and moderate walks can expand the pup's world and his exploratory instinct. But watch out for the dog that knows no limits, especially in hot weather. Heat stroke is an insidious villain.
10. Meeting the puppy's psychological needs is vital in developing a working dog. Bonding, a sense of belonging and security, is especially important. What kind of relationship do you want? Subordinate? Submissive? Servile? Compliant? Peer-like? Buddy and companion? Child-like? General comments here center around letting the dog be a dog; not overly dependent, just part of the pack. Don't let your emotional problems project onto the dog, since it may foster insecurity. Realise that physical corrections will be inevitable in a working dog so get the dog accustomed to touching and physical play.

Exposed to the world

The words exposure and socialisation are synonymous. Expose the puppy in small doses to: People, animals, crowds, things, noise, travel, strange places, motels, other homes, walking children and crawling tots. Confidence building is the key to success. The dog must win!

Extensive demonstrations then followed, utilizing 70 feet of various obstacles varying from a vacuum cleaner, slide, teeter-toter, bridge, barrel, to a dummy that slowly moved up and down. A wide variety of responses were evoked. It was easy to differentiate the hard dogs from the soft ones. Repeated runs through the obstacle course also improved the reaction of the soft dogs. This experiment clearly pointed out the value of exposure in puppy development. Steve commented that the key to success is self-confidence, mental mastery, achieved by letting the dog see through exposure that they always win.

Our goal in structured play is to make play fun, but educational. If it's fun for you, it's fun for the dog. We are attempting to build a build a positive attitude in the puppy to life and learning. Dogs can read our body language while the leash functions as an umbilical cord. Puppies can burn out if training is not fun. We don't correct the dog; we correct the behavior. Establish authority early since it is the key by which we exercise leadership. Training is merely communication enhanced by repetition.

Training puppies

General puppy training guidelines are:
1. Use positive reinforcement.
2. Start with static exercises and work to gain attention.
3. Sandwich together play/work/and play, as well as, old material/new material/old material. Correct timing and consistent repetition are the key. Don't ask too much too quickly and don't confuse size with maturity.
4. High intensity training works as well for many puppies as for adults. If you train this way, keep your sessions very short. Selecting the proper puppy and providing a nurturing environment in which to grow and develop is a fun and challenging experience. Truly, it is worth the effort when we see the results in a working dog or family pet that does us proud.

Normal/abnormal

Closing comments touch solving behavior problems. As a trainer, Steve Robinson feels that one of the most important things is to differentiate "normal puppy behavior from behavior problems." For example, digging, chewing, biting and barking under certain circumstances, and if not excessive, may be perfectly normal puppy behavior. In dealing with these matters, the proper solution is to channel these behaviors into acceptable patterns rather than try to eliminate them. For instance, the puppy that mouths hands and arms should be given its own toy to hold and chew on as a substitute. On the other hand, self-mutilation is not a "normal" behavior and must be dealt with by determining the root cause of the problem and taking the appropriate action.

Cheers,
Evan
VON ULTIMATE KENNELS