Thread: hidden arms

Hi Nathan

Covert sleeves are used for all real scenario training where you don’t want your dog to become equipment focused, and training should be started from the beginning with them covered (clothing worn over it/them). This presupposes that your dog is already doing bitework on an “Overt” sleeve. The dog isn’t supposed to be able to see the sleeve, which is not only for the decoy’s protection, but is as stated to prevent your dog becoming equipment focused. The dog should be agitated by the decoy first to build drive, and supported on the bite by the handler to build confidence and it should be said that with a covert sleeve the decoy shouldn’t attempt to slip the sleeve to reward the dog after it has been given the “out” (usually they’re too tight anyway), but that really defeats the object of wearing one, therefore you need to be very liberal with your praise once the dog has “outed”, and have his toy available to reward him. The dog shouldn’t be looking for the sleeve when training with a covert, it should be focussed only on the decoy and biting him, not a sleeve.

Peter

I think you’ll find that most young dogs which have only been trained on an “overt” sleeve are equipment focused, even after you further their training on a “covert” sleeve, until they get their first real (no sleeve) bite. Many newly licensed young police dogs are actually confused and hesitate or don’t engage the first time on the street, and it’s only when they do start to engage that they get the idea properly. Training is totally different, they know there is a sleeve somewhere, visible or not, so they go through the routine as they have been trained to do. On the street there is no routine, the offender won’t behave the same as the decoy would in training; the vibes which the offender gives off are totally different, and any threat posed is real.

Muzzle work is also a good way to overcome equipment focus, and also tests a dog’s willingness to take the fight to the decoy.

Peter